Saturday, January 19, 2008

Otavalo Markets and Such

I gave myself a couple of days to explore Otavalo which is a major indigenous stronghold. Quichua (not Quechua) speaking peoples live here...and the region is known for excellent crafts production. Master weavers and leather workers create exquisite work...and then there are the new age artists who work with "ecologically correct" materials like seeds and bark as opposed to plastics and glass.

The hotel I stayed in is run by an expat American who has called Ecuador home for the last 30 odd years. We chatted for awhile, noting all the American anthropologists we've both know. Then she launched into her astrological analysis of my personality...somewhat accurate, but hey we all believe what we want to!

While in town I wandered through a small anthropology museum at the university campus and then caught a cab up to a nicely designed condor park The park was designed by a Dutch NGO and fits beautifully into the hilltop landscape. After peering over the entire town, I proceeded to walk about 4 miles through Indian villages on my way back to town. That evening the hotel offered a special Quichwa concert featuring charangas (small guitars) and Andean flutes and drums. It was quite exquisite.

Then this morning I jerked myself awake at 6 am to check out the Saturday animal market. There two-week old calves, baby pigs, goats, chickens and sheep were offered for sale. It was a rather informal affair wherein buyers approached purveyors and/or purveyors shouted out their prices to all interested parties. Being a tourist with a camera, I was hit upon, too. Knowing I was unlikely to buy a goat or a pig, enterprising women with photos of themselves weaving, approached me to buy their beautifully woven scarves. And yes, I spent some money, too.

Afterwards I wandered through more of the Saturday markets--fruits and vegetables, housewares and then for the busloads of tourists: a sprawling crafts market. I bought things I'd never even realized I wanted, like a painting of an ancient Quichwa calendar on a lightly processed bark. With my daypack brimming with stuff, I decided I'd made my contribution to the artisans of Otavalo and packed up my púrchases. I caught a dollar taxi which took me to the bus terminal where I boarded a two dollar bus back to Quito. I sat in front with the bus driver, the fare collector and a young women. Between bites of sugar cane cubes (juicy and delicious), they decided to tell me about about the dating and mating practices of Ecuadorians. The guys would proclaim one thing while the young woman would laugh in their faces. Can't say I learned any take-home facts, but nonetheless we were all in stitches over each sex's claim over what the other one was like!

On the edge of Quito, I was dropped off at a spot where I caught a cab over to my hotel. Andy was already settled in (he{d arrived yesterday). After awhile we met with the 14 others (largely Europeans) who will be part of our Galapagos tour group. It promises to be a great tour. Tomorrow we catch a 7 am flight, leaving the hotel right before 6 am. I{m excited.

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